CoffeeBeer >> Double Shot Buzz >> Chicago 3
On this year's visit to America I spent a few days in Chicago. The third most populous city in the US, Chicago is known for its architecture, arts and music scene, and lots of great food and restaurants. It's also a major transportation hub. In my life I've flown into, out of, and through O'Hare International Airport many times, and I've travelled through the city on the train and even on a Greyhound bus, and I've also ridden across Chicago in a taxi driven by a former computer programming workmate. And of course there's the elevated or "L" system of crosstown trains, which is not only a great way to get across town but also wonderfully noisy in a heavy metallic clangy sort of way, and it definitely brings to mind the writings of Saul Bellow and Carl Sandburg.
I visited the city twice before, back in the late 1980s and again in the mid 1990s, so I was looking forward to seeing it again. On this occasion I stayed with an old friend, Robert, and his Spanish Pointer, Orfeo, who live together in Andersonville, in northeast Chicago. With a distinctly Swedish heritage, Andersonville these days is a very trendy and LGBTQ+- friendly neighbourhood teeming with cafes, bars, pubs, and quirky shops.
On my first morning in the city, I went for a walk with Robert and Orfeo -- or rather, Orfeo led Robert and me on a bit of a chaotically zigzagging stroll around the neighbourhood. And we ended up stopping for breakfast at Colectivo Coffee. I always forget that most eateries in America don't allow pets inside, but fortunately there is a dog-friendly patio outside on the side street.
Robert found a table outside and asked me to go inside and pick up the telephone order he had put in earlier. So I went in and saw the sign that said "Pick Up Orders". Unfortunately they didn't have an order for "Robert" or "R", as he had said, so I went back outside to tell Robert-or-R. While I stayed with Orfeo, Robert went inside and immediately brought back a bag with our order, saying it was on a shelf with bags arranged alphabetically by order name. I told him he didn't tell me that specifically, and he insisted he did, but he didn't. Oh well, never mind: we're all getting older.
We sat and drank our now-cold coffees and ate our Everything bagels with cream cheese. My bagel was wonderfully chewy and properly made, and my Cortado, served in a paper cup, was a bit heavier on the milk than if it had been made in a proper shot glass. Still, it was good cold, as good espresso should always be.
Colectivo Coffee was started back in the 1990s by three friends who appreciated both vinyl records and good coffee. In 1993 they purchased their first vintage Probat roaster, which led a year later to their own Alterra Coffee Roasters. Having opened their first cafe in 1997 in Milwaukee.
The next day I was on my own, so I walked down to another Andersonville breakfast spot, Kopi Cafe. This warmly comfortable cafe features a shop in the rear which is full of art and wares made by local artists. I took a seat at a table on the side near the front and perused the lengthy menu. I was happy to see they offer three sizes of cappuccinos, so I ordered the smallest, which was eight ounces. And it was beautifully presented and perfect in a smooth way. My Lox and Bagel Plate featured a proper Everything bagel, cream cheese, a large thin slice of beefsteak tomato, red onion, and a very generous portion of proper lox, gorgeous, tender, and not salty, the way cold smoked salmon should be. On my plate were also three ripe olives and some lettuce, which bridge the gap between breakfast and lunch. It was a perfect meal, and the staff seemed totally cool and very friendly.
Having opened in 1991, Kopi is open for breakfast, lunch, and early dinners, with wines and cocktails available. A majority of the menu items are vegetarian, and there are vegan and gluten free options as well. If I lived in Andersonville, this would be my local breakfast and brunch spot.
On another morning I stopped for breakfast at Understudy Coffee & Books, a theatre themed bookstore and coffee shop opened by two coffee lovers who met while studying at The Theatre School at DePaul University. On one side is the bookshop which features plays and acting books for sale or just for browsing, and it hosts various events like readings, drag performances, concerts, and comedy open mikes. The beans they use are from Metric Coffee Roasters of Chicago, a roaster that follows the Direct Trade Model.
On the cafe side I ordered a croissant and Cortado which was served in a large shot glass. I sat at the side window counter with a view across the road of Los Arcos Mexican Restaurant, located in an attractive Beaux Arts style building. The view out the front across Clark Street was of a little shopping centre with a Jewel-Osco and a TCF Bank cash machine, and also a Walgreens. So my view was a bit more interesting.
The coffee itself tasted a bit acidic, but my drink was attractively done, and my croissant was huge and decent. The place was full of young people, and the music playing was great. As I was sipping my coffee, a track by the Buena Vista Social Club was playing, so it matched my view of the Mexican restaurant nicely. And then somebody opened the door near me, and I got smacked in the legs with a "Hands Off Chicago" sign. Mind you, I was in the Windy City...
Speaking of wind reminds me of a recent WhatsApp conversation with my Bay Area friend about his recent colonoscopy:
Related Links