CoffeeBeer >> Double Shot Buzz >> Quest for a Perfect Espresso
Why Seattle has been the espresso center of the universe for the past few years is debatable. It could be related to the fact that there seems to be one Italian restaurant for every two persons. An acquaintance of ours who's lived here for a long time believes that Seattleites are unanimously addicted to caffeine because the sky is gray for much of the year, and this causes their metabolisms to slow down. Therefore, drinking lots of espresso is the only way they can keep their blood pressures and adrenaline levels up to normal. Getting a good espresso, cappuccino, or latte can be difficult when you are looking for something specific. These drinks take a bit of time and love to make. When one thinks about how many people drink coffee, one can begin to understand why there are so many espresso carts, shops, and bars in Seattle. The challenge is finding the best place to go. The big question in my mind is not why Seattleites drink so much espresso. It's why they drink so many lattes. A latte can be a pleasant espresso experience, consisting of a properly-tamped shot of espresso mixed with a conservative amount of steamed milk and capped with a half inch of soft milk foam, but often it can be a glass-of-warm-milk-with-a-slight-beige-tinge fiasco. (This is fine if you're in the mood for a glass of warm milk, of course, but it's just not what I'd consider to be an espresso drink.) Sometimes I think the typical latte has the same purpose as white wine or light beer: it's for people who don't really like espresso.
All of the aforementioned espresso drinks can be ordered single or double (with two shots of espresso). In some of the sleepier parts of town you can get a triple or even a quadruple. Be sure to read the menus, because many places serve double shots as the default. These are usually ristretto shots which are shorter and more concentrated. If you get any espresso drink with milk you can order it short, tall, or grande which, if you've ever ordered a cocktail in a bar before, you'll know refers to the amount of filler or, in this case, milk added. A third variable to confuse things is the type of milk you'd like. The default cappuccino or latte is made with whole milk, but most places offer you a choice of whole or 2%. And a latte made with nonfat milk, which another friend claims creates a thicker head, is called a skinny latte. You may also order any of your espresso drinks decaffeinated if you're so inclined, although at that point I'd suggest you step back and let the real coffee drinkers through. At one espresso place Max actually heard a gentleman order a "double tall 2% half-decaf". Think about that for a minute... Before I expound any further on life, the universe, and espresso, I'd like to mention some of the points that Dr. Ernesto Illy, the 70-year-old "Dottore Espresso" of Italy, has made on the subject. Illy, a multilingual scientist, scholar, and inventor, is from a family which has been in the Italian coffee business for three generations. In other words, this guy knows his stuff. First of all he says that the grind is extremely important: if the coffee is ground too coarse it will produce a weak, bitter cup, and if it's ground too fine, not enough flavor will be extracted. He also stresses that tamping is critical, that thirty seconds is the proper draw time for one shot, and that "hard" water makes the best coffee. The recipe for a cappuccino is one shot coffee, one shot milk, and one shot foam, with the temperature of the milk and foam being very important. And the method used to steam milk is very important, too. Dr. Illy complains that the local baristas don't understand about bringing air in with the steam so they don't scald the milk.
First of all, if you want to get a decent latte or cappuccino, avoid places that operate like Starbucks and SBC. The problem with these places is that it's next to impossible to order a customized drink, because you give your order to a cashier who then gives it to the barista. Phrased like "with LOTS AND LOTS of room" will undoubtedly get translated to "with room", "fairly dry" will be translated to "dry as a bone", and words like "foamy" or "half full" will undoubtedly become lost in the translation. It's a good feeling to be able to talk directly to your barista. And, if she or he is a decent barista, she or he will happily customize your order to your specifications. When hundreds of downtown zombie workers invade the local espresso stand every morning and order single tall mochas without foam, it becomes very helpful if you can be explicit about the drink you're ordering. Also, every barista is different, and if you have enough time in Seattle to get to know any of them, you can trust that you'll get the drink you want every time. When I used to drink single lattes -- before I went hardcore and became dependent on my daily double dry cappuccino fix -- my own specifications would vary, depending on the barista, from "a single short latte with lots of room" through "a single short foamy half full." As a rule, however, I found that "single short foamy" works pretty good most of the time. Basically, if you like your latte with foamed milk instead of just hot milk, you can ask for it foamy or with foam; if you like your cappuccino with a thick head of foam and no steamed milk, you can ask for it dry; and if you don't want your cup filled up to the brim, you can simply say with room. Even if you get the perfect amount and ratio of steamed milk, foamed milk, and espresso in your latte or cappuccino, there is one other factor that can ruin the drink: tamping. If the espresso isn't tamped firmly enough into the filter, you're going to get a wimpy watery shot; on the other hand, if it is tamped firmly enough, you're more likely to get a wonderfully heady shot with that kick of aroma that can knock your socks off like a fine red wine or French perfume. I hate to discriminate against small wimpy baristas, but if they aren't putting at least some energy into tamping your shot, expect to be disappointed. I'm always excited when I try a new barista who looks as if she or he has a lot of muscle power in her or his arms. Like I said, I hate to be discriminatory and sound like some sort of espresso fascist, but if you can't tamp your shots hard enough, you simply shouldn't be in the business. That's all there is to it.
There's one other factor to weigh in your quest for the perfect espresso. If your desire is to lounge a bit in a coffeehouse and drink your cappuccino or latte out of something other than a cardboard cup with a plastic lid on it, I've got one simple but valuable piece of advice: notice first what kind of cups they use. If they seem to be serving everything in tall mugs or in pint glasses, turn around and walk out discreetly. If, on the other hand, they appear to be well supplied with nice china cups and saucers, then this is the place to sit down and enjoy your espresso. Ideally they'll have several different sizes of cups, the largest being for lattes and the smallest being for straight shots. If you see a particular cup size you like, don't be afraid to ask for your drink in that cup. After all, drinking espresso is a pleasurable and mildly expensive vice, so you want to do it right. |